CB500T FAQ

I receive a large number of general queries about the CB500T/CB450. PLEASE read the 'TIPS' section and these FAQ's before contacting me, then if you can't find an answer I'll endeavor to help - just be patient.
USA readers please note we are based across the 'Pond' in the United Kingdom.

What do I look for and how much such I pay for a CB500T?

STANDARD 500T's are heavy, underpowered and underbraked. This explains the lukewarm press reception in the UK, I think they sold on appearance to folks looking for an up-to-date classic twin general purpose machine. Unfortunately the engine is very sensitive to servicing: if not done regularly and properly, disaster will be waiting just around the corner.

STILL want one? Well despite all the above I quite like them, and I've never been keen on parallel twins! Bottom ends are virtually bomb proof as long as there is some oil in the sump.
You just need to be very careful when you buy. Most importantly check that the cam follower spindles are within the correct orientation (check out the 'Tips' page for an explanation) and that if this is the case, 'tappet' noise is not excessive. Should the spindles be rotated beyond the standard range allow for a set of cam followers (4) at about £34 each plus a top end gasket set (£25?), if you are doing this you might as well add a cam chain too (£20?). The cams may be damaged which could be very expensive.

BEYOND this check all the usual stuff, particularly the level and condition of the oil. If you do buy one, budget for a set of float needles and seats, and a set of cb points. Better still electronic ignition at about £90 will cure one of the biggest day to day headaches with these bikes (Full review under 'Electronic Ignition', doooh!). Unless you find a mint example don't pay more than £450, I've never paid more than £140 and that was a good runner!

If maintained properly from new I don't see why one of these should not go to 100,000 miles without problems. Of course non of them were, so most are fairly comprehensively knackered at 40,000. I have only come across one instance of a failed torsion arm, as detailed in 'Engine Tech'. Spares are available from www.davidsilverspares.co.uk though oversize pistons are getting hard to find. Your local free adds paper is the best source of these bikes.

One of my plugs is very sooty/oily. What is the cause?

IF I had a fiver for the number of times I've been asked this one.....so please don't ask. Most of them seem to be like this and it's usually the right hand cylinder. There are a hundred and one reasons for this and bear in mind these engines are old and usually clapped out. Possible causes are: worn valve guides, knackered bores, leaking head gasket around the right cylinder outer studs, oil control rings incorrectly installed, bunged breather hoses and re-circulatary system, clogged air filters, clapped out carbs and so on!

IF it is causing real problems a full rebuild is the best answer along with comprehensive carburetor cleaning and rebuild

YET again many reasons and I can't help other than: Try running without the CB points cover as they often short out one cylinder, don't even consider trying to fix things unless you have installed new points and set up the timing correctly. Better still do yourself a favour; throw away those infernal points and fit the Newtronics electronic system.

Try a thorough carb overhaul and fit a new set of float valves and seats, making sure that the idle mixture screw 'O' rings are in good condition (usually they are split or completely missing).

I don't know either! Follow the vague instructions in whatever manual you have and don't worry as it doesn't seem to matter too much if its a few mm out.

Throw the horrible thing away and fit something off a more recent bike. The Yamaha XS650 twin disc wire spoked front end fits without too much difficulty

into the CB500T yokes. Best to check a few dimensions before you lash out your hard earned dosh though.

I don't know as I've never owned a CB450 and have no desire to do so.